Atlantic Canada’s Autumn Colours Are One of the Greatest Shows on Earth – It’s 5 Hours Away – and it’s Free! – July 2011
We call it autumn; they call it fall. Whatever you call the season, in Atlantic Canada it means colour with a capital C: a tapestry of leaves on a billion trees that have turned to blazing red, gold and orange. Add in blue sky and sunshine and there is no better time for a relaxing fly-drive holiday in provinces such as New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.
Not only is Mother Nature’s annual show free to view, the scenic roads and quiet byways are not crowded with ‘leaf watchers’, as fall visitors are nicknamed, and staying in friendly B&Bs and country inns will not cost the earth, making your holiday even more enjoyable.
Autumn is also a great time to enjoy the farmers’ markets. As well as roadside stalls, piled high with apples and pumpkins, there are the regular markets in towns and villages throughout Atlantic Canada’s four provinces, including New Brunswick and Nova Scotia but also Newfoundland & Labrador and Prince Edward Island, where the plentiful fall harvest fills the stalls to the brim. And, there is often live music, too!
Peak viewing time? The leaves start to turn in late-September and are usually at their dazzling best in the first two weeks of October, perfect for Canada’s very own Thanksgiving Holiday Weekend (October 10, 2011).
In New Brunswick, the contrast between the blue sea and the kaleidoscope of colour on land is particularly dramatic along the Acadian Coast. That’s the northern coast of New Brunswick, where French-speaking villages fly the Acadian flag: red, white and blue, with a yellow star.
Drive along Chaleur Bay, taking in Charlo, Caraquet (and the Village Historique Acadien, living history village) and unspoiled Miscou Island, with its much-photographed lighthouse. Colour splashes across the landscape: three-quarters of the province is covered with an ideal mix of trees: evergreens plus maple, beech, elm and red oak. And, the maples that turn scarlet are the same trees that produce maple syrup in the spring! The bonus on the Acadian Coast is the rich dark red of the autumnal wetlands.
The picturesque River Valley Scenic Drive meanders from Edmundston in the northwest, to the town of Sussex in the southeast and is a beautiful drive that takes you through rich farmland and glorious panoramas; especially in the fall with the blazing foliage a backdrop to the winding 400 km (250 mi) mighty St. John River.
Tip: with millions of birds commuting along one of North America’s major eastern flyways, this is also a great time for birdwatchers.
Voted the No. 1 Island in Canada and Continental USA by readers of Travel and Leisure magazine, Cape Breton boasts Nova Scotia’s world-famous Cabot Trail that swoops round Cape Breton Island’s northern shoreline. In autumn, the trees try to outdo each other in a fashion parade: mountain ash, white birch, oak and, of course, sugar maples. And always, the Atlantic Ocean provides a dramatic backdrop.
Some advise driving clockwise (hugging the hillside); others prefer driving anti-clockwise, for better views of the sea. The bigger question is: who drives and who sits back to admire the scenery? Happily, numerous walking trails on route offer the perfect opportunity to stop, take in the fresh air and be immersed in the incredible autumn scenery.
And, as ever in this part of the world, great events are celebrated with great music. As the leaves change colour, some of the world’s leading Celtic musicians arrive to take part in the 15th Celtic Colours International Festival (October 7-15). After a day of feasting your eyes on Nova Scotia’s forests, tap your feet to the beat as bands play in local fire stations, parish halls and concert halls.
FACT: Why do the leaves turn in Autumn?
Fall in Atlantic Canada is a delightful mix of warm days and crisp nights: perfect for fall foliage. Leaves are green, thanks to trees producing chlorophyll. When nights grow longer and colder, chlorophyll production slows down and eventually stops. The warm weather encourages the red and purple anthocyanins and orange-yellow carotenoids in the leaves to show through, creating the palette of brilliant colours.
Canadian Affair (www.canadianaffair.com / 020 7616 9933) offers a 13 night Maritime Magic Treasures package from £1,267 per person. It includes return Economy Class flights from London Gatwick to Halifax, accommodation for 13 nights (based on two people sharing on a room only basis), and car hire for the duration of the trip (intermediate vehicle, fully inclusive). It also includes a 4 hour whale watching and wildlife tour at Brier Island, helpful information such as a road maps, city guides and attraction information, and a children’s backpack filled with fun activities (12 and under).